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Author Topic: Fridges  (Read 9786 times)

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Anonymous

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Fridges
« on: May 01, 2005, 09:21:48 PM »
I have a 1990 Vanagon with a Dometic RM182B fridge that is somewhat ornamental in the propane mode. That is to say that it looks nice and fits well, (as it should!), but I can't get it to fire up on propane. Any helpful hints or suggestions would be most appreciated. Thanks from a northern neighbour (note the spelling!).
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Anonymous »

Anonymous

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Re: Fridges
« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2005, 09:46:55 PM »
go to vanagon.com . they have good info for the fridge  :)
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Anonymous »

cc6344454

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Re: Fridges
« Reply #2 on: May 02, 2005, 02:34:38 PM »
It is always an effort to get my propane fridge to work.  Pumping, clicking, pumping again, clicking again, with a towel over my head lying flat on my belly to see if the little blue flame is there. <br>It eventually works, but not exactly a deep freeze. I love it, at some campout somewhere there was actually a contest on whose propane fired fridge can cool a beer to the lowest temperature. Don't remember the results though.<br> 8)
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by cc6344454 »

Red Baron

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Re: Fridges
« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2005, 11:34:50 PM »
(Shamless promotion)  LiMBO has a book,we call the fridge book.  Its about 13 bucks including shipping and has all the info on starting, running, maintaining and repairing the Westy fridge.  Check out the LiMBO-Mart for details.  -Jim
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Red Baron »

Anonymous

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Re: Fridges
« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2005, 06:57:57 PM »
i had the same problem. i took the fridg out and replaced the gas jet. end of problem.   don
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Anonymous »

Anonymous

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Re: Fridges
« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2006, 11:38:18 PM »
I also had problems getting my fridge lit. There is little that can be done with out removing it the whole thing. My air pump check valve was bad, and I could not either light it, or had problems keeping it going. I have found it nessesary to give it a bit of air just after lighting untill the exhaust gets a proper draft from the heat produced convection. But, before I replaced it, I found that an air mattress hand pump hooked to the condensation drain at the bottom front vent will work well. Just uncap it, and connect with a piece of plastic tubing. I have also found if the system has been shut down a long time, it may need extra priming. But if in doubt it may have too much gas in the combustion chamber, or it briefly lit but ran out of oxygen, pump fresh air and try again. I have the LED indicator, to tell if it is lit. This makes it much easyer.  This is a good diagnostic, but not a convenient total solution. In the end removing the fridge, cleaning the combustion chamber of rust, confirming the spark, check valve, and gas flow are all great ideas. Also pulling a small rag throught the intake, and exhaust stacks while it is apart is a good idea. A spider web in there will keep it from working. I adapted a check valve from a $4.00 basket ball hand pump for the job. It was handy and cheap. While it is out, this is a good time to upgrade the fan on the back. I used a pair of multispeed computer fans purchased from staples. They are very quiet, and move alot of air. When all was working well, I had issues with it staying lit while on the highway. It is not "supposed to", but I found many people can. There are some crazy suggestions on the subject on the web. Some requiring extensive modifications based on guess work. I did a diagnostic with tiny tubes inserted in the intake, and exhaust ports and measured the pressure differential while driving. Not supprisingly, I found a positive pressure on the exhaust. This simply prevents the exhaust form properly exiting, and either starves the combustion process of oxygen, or simply blows out the pilot light. I tried simply making small changes to the intake-exhaust port with slightly obscuring the leading edge of the exhaust path, and the trailing edge of the intake corrected the balance. It now works great. The fridge works like new now.  
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Anonymous »

MrLiMBO

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Re: Fridges
« Reply #6 on: May 18, 2006, 04:02:34 PM »
'Priming' on shore power is a good idea if you are having difficulty lighting your fridge.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by MrLiMBO »
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Anonymous

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Re: Fridges
« Reply #7 on: July 22, 2006, 10:36:53 PM »
Has anyone considered taking out the fridge and using it for storage? You could use one of those portable Engel fridges that draws less amps and could run off the aux battery and charged with a solar panel.<br><br>Anyone tried this and did it work
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Anonymous »

Anonymous

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Re: Fridges
« Reply #8 on: August 10, 2006, 10:18:56 AM »
the Engle fridge is good but lacks space and the price :o<br><br>i would go with the norcool 2.2 with with slight mods fit .the mods are a little high and wide ok<br>you will need to trim up the top by 1 1/2 inches and the trim panel will not be installed and for the depth is 1 in to long so the fridge will stick out a bit. now you have a bigger fridge with modern tech and coollere temps<br><br>for the stock fridge pump it like crazy and light at the same time .
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Anonymous »

vegiDsl

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« Reply #9 on: October 16, 2009, 04:44:10 PM »
my three way fridge does not work on DC or AC, i'm not going to try it on propane. is a Domestic in this condition worth working on? or should i shop for a replacement? (original equipment in my 82 Westy)
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by vegiDsl »

Vanagonjr

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« Reply #10 on: October 16, 2009, 06:33:56 PM »
vegidiesel - It seems to me that it is worth working on. It might not be expensive to get it running.  A little strange that it doesn't work on either DC or AC.  I no longer have a fridge (weekender), but the first thing I would check if it is getting power.  If not, check the fuse.    Sorry, I can't be more help

John
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Vanagonjr »
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vegiDsl

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« Reply #11 on: October 18, 2009, 04:19:37 PM »
John, i suspect the hot side of the refrideration unit has lost presure. the way the absoption system works that would explain no cooling on AC or DC. it would also explain why there is a very small cooling effect on a hot day with a wide temerature swing. the bottom line is i have a fridge that only works when it is off.
vegiDsl
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by vegiDsl »

Vanagonjr

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« Reply #12 on: October 19, 2009, 12:45:05 PM »
Electric only alternatives - are Vitrifrigo and Truckfridge  see http://www.westyventures.com/parts.html

or get this Go Westy fridge elimination kit and and an ice chest ; )

http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details. ... parent_id=

What I would like is a highly insulated square, but tall top loading ice chest.  With a block of ice you are set for days.  

Maybe Igloo has ones that fit the bill - such as Maxcold 70 Qt Roller (At Dick's Sporting goods) or Marine 60 - http://www.igloocoolers.com/products/Fu ... arine/266/

John
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Vanagonjr »
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Anonymous

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« Reply #13 on: February 05, 2011, 04:23:52 PM »
yah,,your are right.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Anonymous »

alain riaud

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« Reply #14 on: February 10, 2011, 02:26:29 AM »
Quote from: "Vanagonjr"
Electric only alternatives - are Vitrifrigo and Truckfridge  see http://www.westyventures.com/parts.html

or get this Go Westy fridge elimination kit and and an ice chest ; )

http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details. ... parent_id=

What I would like is a highly insulated square, but tall top loading ice chest.  With a block of ice you are set for days.  

Maybe Igloo has ones that fit the bill - such as Maxcold 70 Qt Roller (At Dick's Sporting goods) or Marine 60 - http://www.igloocoolers.com/products/Fu ... arine/266/

John


I have been using electric fridge for 20 years. Never had a problem.
The linear compressor based one are very silent and draw a mere 2 amps on the aux battery.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by alain riaud »


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