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Messages - Anonymous
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31
« on: May 25, 2006, 05:11:01 AM »
HELP - 1971 Camper<br>New engine, new carb., fresh gas, gas tank cleaned and reinstalled, new line from tank to carb, new gas filter, new gas pump. Will start with Ether, runs for about 3 minutes then stalls. Will not re-start without another shot of Ether? Please be gentle, as I am not a mechanic - I know just enough to get me in trouble.....any ideas (aside from getting a real mechanic, as this project has now become a matter of principle and I will NOT quit!
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« on: December 27, 2006, 04:09:06 PM »
Bus Boys in Reading, CA will be able to help. Ask for Walter, he has always been a big help with those types of questions.
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« on: November 18, 2006, 05:36:05 PM »
On the Bus Depot site, if you click on a part a listing on the bottom shows the vechicles it fits. It's not perfect but it can be a big hlep. I found out that the old scirocco heater valve I had actually fit my 2.1 liter Vanagon after doing a part number check<br><br>JR
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« on: November 18, 2006, 09:09:05 AM »
is the a book or program that will allow what parts are interchangable for vw buses and vanagons?
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« on: December 06, 2006, 05:17:37 PM »
I have a friend who has just bought a 74 Westy Continental.<br>This was apparently converted from a sliding roof bus.<br>It is original RHD and information is lacking on this model.<br>Can anyone help. Will try and post some pics shortly
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« on: December 02, 2006, 03:28:29 PM »
Mystery resolved: (and I'm interested to know I'm not unique in finding this condition) The rug and mat under the pedals were/have always been a little "damp"--probably small amounts of fluid. Back under the tranny, there was a bit more dampness--accounting for the slow drip-stain on the blacktop where I park (which I had assumed was oil--and I regularly topped off the oil if it was low). So after a few more days, the pedal started coming back. Maybe if I had pump[ed for twenty minutes it would have been there quickly. SO: i assume I drip enough fluid at the slave/tranny cylinder to eventually put air in the line. Since I let it sit after I encountered the problem, no doubt more air got in. Filling the reservoir, plus time/pumping brings it back. Since it is a very slow leak, and in a system not nearly as critical as the brakes, I'll keep a monthly eye on the reservoir level, wash out the carpet mat with hand cleaner/then detergent, and see if I can put off a full repair for a few years. Thanks for comments! Now: to finish the new 4-banger 1.9L for my '72 VW-Porsche 914--presumably in the garage, at least until swap-out time . -Chris H in VA 'burbs of DC
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« on: November 29, 2006, 02:03:19 PM »
Forgot to say, that it seems if you do indeed need to replace the clutch master, that more than likely you will need to bleed the system twice. <br><br>Once after the install, then again a week or so later. I can't tell you why, but I had throughly researched this subject and that't the general concenus. Seems, many replace the master only to loose the clutch again and then replace the slave (or vice versa). A re-bleed in several cases has put the system right for a few people. <br><br>This does make sense as the slave failing 2weeks after the master for several people is just too much of a conincidence.<br><br>John R
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« on: November 29, 2006, 01:52:49 PM »
 OK this is too weird, I have the same condition on my 86 Westy! Had been using it as a daily driver for a few weeks, then I parked it for maybe 2 weeks and no clutch. <br><br>The fluid had dropped below the clutch out-feed line, so I have brakes and figured there's a leak in the clutch system- but I cannot find any - clutch master dry, as well as the slave. I added LOTS of fluid as well - no clutch yet. I'm thinking that it is posible that there is a very slow leak and after the fluid level drops enough, you loose the clutch. The brake lines go out of the brake master at a point lower than the clutch line. this makes sense, since any leak in the clutch system will be unable to drop the level to the point you have no brakes.<br><br>To check the clutch master, you need to pull the carpet away form under the drivers sides, near the pedals, the clutch master is right there.<br><br>I figure besides this check and checking the clutch slave (just forward of engine bay) you need to do the same as I, inspect the entire line going from the clutch master to the slave. Look at the front calipers and brake lines (metal and rubber) for leak. Pull rear brakes and look at rear wheel brake cylinders.<br><br>I'm betting it's my rear wheel cylinders, since my slave and clutch master appear dry. <br><br>Hit list<br>Check for leaks in clutch system first<br> clutch master <br> slave cylinder<br> clutch hydraulic lines<br>Brake system next<br> rear wheel cylinders<br> front caliper area <br> brake lines - rubber and metal <br><br>John R<br><br><br><br>
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« on: November 29, 2006, 10:52:55 AM »
Chris,<br><br>I had this happen to me a few years ago on my '87 Syncro. It had been sitting outside in the cold for several weeks and I went to try and start it. The clutch pedal went to the floor. I added some fluid to the reservoir and was able to get the pedal pressure back by continuosly pumping it by hand (for 20 minutes or so). I never did find the leak and sold the van later that winter. The clutch was working fine when I sold it.<br><br>I've never done a clutch master cylinder myself so I can't give you much insight on that. Hopefully someone else on our forum can give you some tips on the R&I.<br><br>-Stan Wohlfarth
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« on: November 28, 2006, 02:47:20 PM »
OK, what's going on with my '87 Westie? Suddenly (OK-after sitting a few days) there's no resistance at the clutch pedal-- it goes right to the floor without activating the slave cyl at the tranny. But: NO puddle at either end. So I added LOTS of fluid to the joint reservoir-brake/clutch (to fill it), and yes, the brakes still worked. Lots of pumping the pedal, still no back-pressure, no clutch action. STILL no puddle, either! And I don't think I could have missed that much wetness under the driver's mat. Under the lower end of the steering col, under the car, is a flat surface that looks like some kind of pan (?plastic?). Could that be holding the missing fluid? If so , the leak is at the front. (I did a rear on an '86 a few years ago.) How do I get to the clutch master cyl? I've got about 2 days of good weather forcast. Thanks for any help. Chris H, in VA near DC [and an original founding LiMBO (and NEATO) member long ago and far away in a Boston galaxy].
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« on: November 16, 2006, 12:24:27 PM »
At some point they changed from a screw type speedo cable to a clip on one, I think. Other than that it should work if you just replace the speedometer and keep your existing cluster wiring intact.<br><br>I modified the instrument cluster in my '81 to use a later tach. I had to switch some of the main harness connector wire positions to get everything to work right. The Bentley manual was very helpful in helping me figure this out. I also had to run a tach signal wire from the coil.<br><br>There are also places that will rebuild the speedometer. I know one is in Cali. and I think there is another one located on the east coast (maybe PA?).<br><br>Good luck,<br><br>Stan
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« on: August 01, 2006, 05:20:47 PM »
1990 Vanagon GL<br><br>After reading a few notes files, I tried the easy fix. I removed the instrument cluster, removed the speedometer/odometer from the cluster, and noted the shaft had just fallen out of the end of its groove. I pushed it back in and shifted the lugs (?) over slightly. As I expected, it worked for .5 of a mile. <br><br>I have an old speedometer/odometer from my 1984 Wolfsburg. <br><br>Question: Will this work in the 1990 van? The unit size looks the same, however, where the speedometer cable attaches, it looks slightly different from what I recall when I had the 1990 part out. <br><br>Also, there is no printed circuit board attached to the back of the 1984 unit. However, I think this could be just left hanging on the back of the 1990 unit.<br><br>Comments?<br>
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« on: November 16, 2006, 12:17:41 PM »
Must be some mods that a previous owner did. I suppose it could be anything: auxil. lights, pumps, electric beer tap, margarita blender relay, air conditioner in the front window, who knows...<br><br>At least it doesn't seem to cause any harm to get rid of it.
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« on: August 29, 2006, 12:45:53 PM »
Bought a 83 Westy and note that it has a non-standard electic mod - but what is it?<br><br>Next to the steering post is a 2x2x0.5 inch black unit with a six position plug. two wires go to key switch presumably to get power. The other 4 wires connect to a two position switch on the dash, a led light on dash and other wires disappear. Switch appears to do nothing and I can also unplug the unit and nothing seems to change. Any suggestions as to what this might be?
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« on: October 29, 2006, 07:35:35 PM »
 Again I would like to thank you for your support in my mission to fix my van. I will keep you posted on my results.<br>Don
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