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Technical Concerns / Throttle Switch
« on: April 25, 2007, 09:39:39 PM »
The throttle switches I'm familiar with are a pair mounted on the throttle body, one that makes up at idle and the other that makes up at full throttle. The engine needs extra fuel at both these positions, at either position the same signal is given to the computer (the wires from both switches are joined). I have seen similiar ones on VW's and Audi's at the wrecking yard. They need only need to make or break, but must have slotted mounting screwholes and similiar pattern to the orignial ones.
The switches can be checked with a Volt Ohm meter, set it on Ohms. With the engine and key off; remove the wires from only the idle switch, check the idle switch. It should read "0" resistance, if not barely loosen the mounting screws and try barely moving the switch to get the "0" reading, if reads "0" tigthen the screws, it is adjusted replace the wires. The full throttle switch and setting is checked the same way, but you will need someone to put the gas pedal to the floor.
If you cannot get a "0" reading remove the switch and test outside the car, these are normal open switches and only make up when the lever is moved toward the switch, you should hear or feel the click of it making up.
Best of luck.
The switches can be checked with a Volt Ohm meter, set it on Ohms. With the engine and key off; remove the wires from only the idle switch, check the idle switch. It should read "0" resistance, if not barely loosen the mounting screws and try barely moving the switch to get the "0" reading, if reads "0" tigthen the screws, it is adjusted replace the wires. The full throttle switch and setting is checked the same way, but you will need someone to put the gas pedal to the floor.
If you cannot get a "0" reading remove the switch and test outside the car, these are normal open switches and only make up when the lever is moved toward the switch, you should hear or feel the click of it making up.
Best of luck.